Once Taboo, More Japanese Women Are Brewing Sake

In the quaint city of Okaya, Japan, a shift is occurring in the world of sake production. Mie Takahashi, a sake brewer, is the embodiment of this change. Early in the morning, she checks the temperature of a fermenting mixture at her family’s 150-year-old sake brewery, Koten, located in the scenic foothills of the Japanese Alps.

Takahashi carefully stirs a mixture in a large tank that holds over 3,000 liters of bubbling ingredients, including steamed rice and koji, a rice mold essential for sake fermentation. "The morning hours are crucial in sake making," she explains, emphasizing the importance of this early work in the brewing process.

At 43, Takahashi represents a small but growing group of female toji, or master sake brewers, in Japan. Currently, there are only 33 registered female toji in Japan’s Toji Guild Association, which is a significant increase compared to the past, as women were largely barred from the sake profession until after World War II.

The history of sake production spans over a thousand years and is deeply intertwined with Japan's traditional Shinto religion. However, during the Edo period (1603-1868), an informal rule was established that excluded women from participating in breweries. The reasons for this exclusion are not entirely clear, but some suggest that it stemmed from beliefs regarding purity, particularly in relation to menstruation, which led to women being seen as unsuitable for sacred brewing spaces. Others argue that the physically demanding nature of sake production contributed to the exclusion of women.

Today, changing attitudes and a shrinking workforce in Japan due to an aging population have opened doors for women in this male-dominated industry. Takahashi acknowledges the ongoing gender disparity but believes that passion for the craft is now the key qualification, over gender.

Mechanization in the brewery has also played a role in increasing female participation. Takahashi mentions how machines can handle heavy lifting that used to require significant physical effort, allowing women to take on more roles within the brewery. These machines, like cranes that lift large quantities of steamed rice, have made operations easier and more accessible.

Sake, known as nihonshu, involves a complex fermentation process where steamed rice is combined with koji mold, which transforms starch into sugar. This ancient brewing method has gained recognition, as it was recently added to UNESCO's list of Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Growing up, Takahashi was not permitted to enter her family’s brewery. It was only when she turned 15 that she got her first tour and was mesmerized by the fermentation process. "I saw it bubbling up. It was fascinating to learn that those bubbles were the work of microorganisms that you can’t even see," she recalls. This experience ignited her passion for brewing sake.

After pursuing a degree in fermentation science at the Tokyo University of Agriculture, Takahashi trained for ten years under a master before taking over as toji at the age of 34. As the winter season approaches, she leads a team of seasonal workers to ramp up production, which is labor-intensive and requires meticulous oversight.

Despite the challenges, Takahashi fosters a collaborative atmosphere at the brewery, knowing that a positive environment produces better sake. "If the atmosphere in the brewery is tense, the sake will turn out harsh, but if things are going well, the sake will turn out smooth," she emphasizes.

The increase in female brewers is vital for the sake industry, which has experienced a steady decline since its peak in the 1970s. With declining domestic alcohol consumption and smaller breweries struggling to find new talent, having women in the industry offers a promising future.

Koten Brewery is among those adapting to stay competitive, looking for ways to extend their market reach both in Japan and internationally. Takahashi’s brother, Isao, who manages the business, supports her innovative approaches, including a limited-edition sake series called Mie Special, which offers new flavors and techniques.

“My sister wants to try different styles, like low alcohol content or new yeasts, and I am here to help sell her creations,” he states. This teamwork represents a hopeful trend for the future of sake brewing in Japan.

sake, brewing, women